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By Mrs. D.B. Bates
Chapter
1,
2,
3,
4,
5
•
Chapters Six
through Seven >>
CHAPTER
I
IN the town of Kingston, in the State of
Massachusetts, not many miles distant from that ancient and time-honored bay
whose waters years ago kissed the prow of the "May Flower" as she approached
a sterile and inhospitable shore, is situated the home of my childhood.
The dear old homestead, the scene of so many fond recollections, had
descended from father to son for generations. The storms of many winters had
beaten upon its roof; time had left its impress without, in the shape of
moss-covered shingles; but within, all was youthful joy and gladness. Not a
link in that family circle had been severed. In love and affection were we
nurtured.
Although years have intervened since those sunny days of childhood, how
often, while sojourning in distant lands, would memory recall with undimmed
freshness the gladsome spring-time of youth. Happy days! too speedily do
they fly, leaving, often, naught but the recollection of them to cheer us in
our toilsome march. Early in life, I was united to one whose home was on the
deep. Then came the sad partings from loved friends, to follow for many
consecutive years the fortunes of my husband by sea and land. There were sad
departures and joyful returns.
Top
CHAPTER II
ON the 27th of July, 1850, I sailed from
Baltimore in the ship Nonantum , of Boston, (Bates, master,) bound to San
Francisco. In the ship's hold was stowed one thousand and fifty tons of
coal; the between-decks were filled with provisions for the steamers plying
between Panama and the El Dorado of the West. The coal with which we were
laden was taken from the Cumberland mines, brought directly to Baltimore in
open iron cars, subject to frequent showers of rain on the way, and
deposited in that condition in the ship.
With bright hopes and glowing anticipations we left our native land. Well
was it that no prophetic visions presaged the future that awaited us. We
were wholly unconscious at the time of the remarks uttered by the spectators
assembled upon the wharf, to the effect that coal was a dangerous cargo to
take upon so long a voyage.
By the lessons taught by the bitter experiences of that memorable year, many
shipmasters have duly profited. Now, they stow their coal in casks, or in
small quantities, have it dry when placed on board, and give it sufficient
ventilation.
The ship's crew consisted of the usual complement of sailors, first and
second officers, carpenter, cook, and steward; also two boys, who
particularly attracted my attention. They were pleasant little fellows, who,
being possessed of a mania for the sea, had left their homes to seek their
fortunes upon the treacherous deep. Many times during the voyage had they
occasion to bless the captain's wife for a bite of something good from the
cabin table, slyly given to them, and in secret eaten.
This was not my first voyage. To me the cabin of a wave-tossed vessel, and a
trip across the deep green ocean, was never monotonous or disagreeable,
never being afflicted with that unpleasant nausea termed "sea-sickness," so
much to be dreaded, judging from the appearance and descriptions received.
The separation from earth's homes and loved hearts are all calculated to
elevate the mind, and centre the soul's best affections upon pure and holy
objects. How often, hour after hour, have I sat gazing upon the boundless
expanse of water, contrasting in my mind the utter insignificance of human
power and skill, compared with the majesty of the Almighty Maker of the
ocean and the land.
Moonlight nights at sea are my especial delight. How I love to gaze upon the
illimitable deep, and watch each ripple gleaming and sparkling in the broad
and trackless pathway like myriads of diamonds beneath the effulgent beams
of the glorious orb of night! Almost imperceptibly, a holy calm pervades my
being, and absorbs all other faculties. With what reluctant feelings, on
such evenings as these, would I resign my seat upon deck, even after the
night was far spent.
Before leaving Baltimore, my husband had purchased a beautiful Newfoundland
dog, of the largest species; to which, on account of the remarkable sagacity
he displayed, I became very much attached. In my daily promenade upon deck,
he was ever by my side. Whenever a sail was discovered in the distance, he
would place his huge fore-paws on the ship's rail, and send his loud, hoarse
bark reverberating far over the swelling wave.
Then I had two goats on board to furnish milk, not being sailor enough to
drink the strong coffee made on ship-board. They were very playful, and once
a day were allowed the liberty of the deck, which they readily improved by
racing and frolicking about, in which they were joined by Dash.
In pleasant weather, when off the coast of Brazil, I have sat for hours on
the ship's rail fishing for albatross, one of the largest and most
formidable of the South Sea birds, as they majestically sailed along in the
wake of the ship, watching the bait (a piece of pork fastened to the hook,
and a small bit of board attached to the line to float it,) so temptingly
displayed. After swallowing it, and finding themselves captured, there was
no struggling to free themselves, but, as you hauled in the line, they would
sail gracefully along in all their native beauty and dignity. The assistance
of the two boys was required in bringing them to the deck, where, after
freeing them from the hook, (which, the boys always assured me, did not hurt
them in the least,) they would survey the scene around them with a sort of
contemptuous glance, as though they disdained their captors and the
deception used to allure them from their native element. The goats, when
freed from their inclosures, would advance towards them, rear themselves on
their hind-legs, and shake their heads in defiance of the monster bird;
while it, in turn, would snap its tremendous bill with such force, you could
hear it ring from one part of the ship to the other; but they would never
encounter one another except by threatening gestures. When we became
satisfied with admiring our prisoner, two sailors would each grasp a wing,
raise him to the side of the ship, give him a toss, and away he would soar;
then light gracefully upon the water at a little distance, and view what I
suppose he thought to be a huge monster which had held him in his grasp.
Another amusement was taking a dish of crumbs, and, by throwing over a
handful, call a flock of cape-pigeons to the ship's side. Each one eager to
secure his share, they would dive far down into the clear water to get those
that were sinking. Sometimes, to deceive them, I would throw over a bone
that would sink rapidly. Down they would all go after it out of sight; then
appear again, chattering,--scolding, I called the incessant noise they kept
up. This bird resembles our tame pigeon, with the exception of being a
little larger.
Flocks of "Mother Carey's chickens" were occasionally following in our wake.
Those tiny little things, ever on the wing, often excited my sympathy. About
this time, the faithful dog I had learned to love so well sickened, and
daily grew worse. Every remedy we could devise was called into requisition,
but availed nought. One night, after I had retired, he dragged himself to my
berth, placed his nose close to my face, and whined and moaned piteously. I
afterwards thought it prophetic of evil in the future. Upon making my
appearance upon deck the next morning, there lay the noble animal-dead. Poor
old Dash! the remembrance of thee and thy many virtues will live long on
memory's leaf.
Top
CHAPTER III
DAYS and weeks passed on, until we were in
the latitude of the Rio de la Plata. So mild and pleasant had been the
weather, that I was half inclined to believe this voyage indeed was to be an
exception to all previous ones; although often, when expressing myself
delighted with the continuance of such lovely weather, the exuberance of my
feelings would be somewhat checked by repeated assurances from my husband
that I should see it "rough enough" off Cape Horn to compensate for all
previous calms.
Suddenly the aspect of affairs changed, and we encountered a terrific storm,
the bare recollection of which almost makes me shudder. The ship's cabin was
a house upon deck; and, as the storm increased in violence, the angry waves
dashing higher and higher as each successive blast lashed the mighty deep,
fears were entertained that the house would be forcibly detached from the
deck. Heavy shutters were fastened against the windows as a protection to
the glass against the storm, thereby rendering the cabin dark as night. A
lantern was kept burning through the day, as well as by night. Owing to the
violent motion of the ship, I was compelled, for the most part of the time,
to keep my berth, to prevent being dashed against the cabin walls. I very
reluctantly consented to confine myself to my state-room, but not, however,
until I had received some severe bumps. So violent and sudden were those
jerks, that, unless one was very much guarded, they would be thrown very
unceremoniously from their seat.
Oh, it was terrible to lie so many hours listening to the roaring of the
storm without! I wished very much to get a glimpse of the ocean when lashed
into such fury, but there was no aperture whereby I could gratify my
curiosity. I had only to pray, and listen alone. My husband was constantly
on deck, taking neither refreshment nor sleep. I wondered not at his
anxiety, although I knew not then the imminent danger impending from fire as
well as water; for, the second morning after the commencement of the storm,
smoke had been discovered between decks. The alarming truth instantly
flashed upon our minds. The gas that originated from the coal had generated
fire. Orders were immediately given to get up provisions and water
sufficient to last until we could be released from our awful situation.
While thus engaged, several of the men were rendered senseless from the
effects of the gas. They next proceeded to close the hatches, and caulked
every seam tightly, in the hope of arresting the progress of the fire it was
impossible to extinguish.
Captain B-- shaped his course for the nearest were eight hundred miles
distant. During this time, the severity of the gale was such, it compelled
me to remain in the cabin; and for three days I remained in ignorance of our
perilous situation. During this interval, the air in the cabin was ever
impregnated with a strong odor of tar. This was accounted for to me in this
light,--the cook was boiling tar, as they were obliged to make use of a
great deal at such times. That, of course, looked very reasonable, and
served the purpose of concealment from me of the fire. It is true the
countenances of my husband and officers bore unmistakable traces of anxiety;
but this I readily attributed to the violence of the gale, which threatened
every moment to engulf us.
I also noticed the steward caulking some of the seams in the pantry. Upon
inquiry, he gave me to understand it was necessary to use this precaution,
to prevent any liquids he should chance to spill from running down on the
cargo,--a foolish excuse, to be sure; but, however, it proved effective.
But, when the gas and smoke escaped through seams which were apparently
water-tight, and made its appearance in the cabin, concealment was no longer
possible.
Upon learning the sad truth, for a time all fortitude and self-control
forsook me. I thought of my dear old home far away, in its quiet seclusion;
of the loved ones wont to assemble there to talk and pray for the safety of
the absent one. I felt I should never more behold them, and that they would
ever remain in ignorance of our fate. After the first moments of despair,
Hope again asserted her empire. Repinings, I reasoned, were useless. The
Almighty hand which formed the channels of the deep had power, I knew, to
preserve us, and guide us, amidst storm and darkness, to our homes and
havens of rest. The greatest consternation prevailed among the crew. At
times the gale would abate, only to be renewed with increased violence. We
were soon obliged to vacate the cabin, which was filled to suffocation with
gas; and, for five consecutive days and nights, I remained in a chair which
was lashed to the deck. It was quite cold, and often I was drenched with the
water and spray that would dash at short intervals across the deck. Never
can I forget those dreary days of suffering that I sat gazing from the
narrow deck upon the boundless expanse of tossing, foam-crested billows. As
far as eye could reach, no friendly sail appeared to which we could look for
safety; nothing was seen but the sweeping surge, as it came roaring and
dashing on, threatening to overwhelm us. In such an hour man learns of God,
and witnesses proof of his grandeur and power in every dashing wave; he sees
nature in one of its grandest aspects.
If possible, the nights exceeded in anxiety the days; impenetrable darkness
surrounded us, relieved only by sheets of white foam dashing over the bows,
as the doomed ship madly plunged into the angry waters. When one sea more
powerful than another would strike her, causing her to tremble in every
timber, I would grasp my chair, shut my eyes, and think we were fast being
engulfed in the sea. Oh, those nights of agony! Never, through all the
vicissitudes of after life, will one thought, one feeling, then endured,
fade from the volume of memory.
Each day the ship was getting hotter; gas and smoke were escaping at every
seam. We constantly feared an explosion, as the natural consequence of so
much confined gas. What a solace to me, in those days of trial, was the
trust, the implicit confidence, I felt in that mighty Guardian Power that is
ever around and about us, and in whose protection we are forever safe!
On the twelfth day after fire was first discovered, we made the Falkland
Islands. As we approached the Volunteer Rocks, which make off two miles from
land, gloomy and forbidding as were their appearance, I hailed them as
harbingers of safety. Truly it must have been the sunshine, the grateful
happiness of the heart, which clothed those barren rocks with imaginary
beauty--I had almost said reverence.
Top
CHAPTER IV
THE entrance to the outer bay is called
Port William. About twenty miles up this bay, an English colony is
established. The entrance to Port William is designated by a tall
flag-staff. At the time of our arrival, it was blowing a
close-reefed-topsail breeze, directly down the bay; and, as night was
approaching, the captain deemed it advisable to select the most sheltered
situation at hand, and anchor until morning.
Formerly, this colony was located up Berkley's Sound, and called Port Louis.
It has since been removed to its present site, and styled Port Stanley. The
Falkland Islands are situated in the South Atlantic Ocean, where the mariner
guides his course at night by the sacred constellation of the Southern
Cross, and between the parallels of 51 deg. and 53 deg. south, and extending
from 57 deg. to nearly 62 deg. west. The only two of considerable size are
the East and West Falkland. These are separated by a channel. Around these
islands are numerous rocks, whose distance from the shores, where tides run
strongly, and winds are violent as well as sudden, renders it rather
difficult to navigate. In approaching land, and particularly when entering a
harbor, a good look-out should be kept for fixed kelp, which grows upon
every rock covered by the sea, and not far below the surface. Lying upon the
water, the leaves and stalk serve as well as a buoy to warn of hidden
danger. A region more exposed to storms, both in summer and winter, it would
be difficult to mention. High winds are prevalent, and very violent at
times. During the summer, a calm day is an extraordinary event. Generally
speaking, the nights are less windy than the days. Altogether, the
appearance of these lonely isles of the South are dismal and uninviting in
the extreme. Moorland and black bog extend in nearly every direction;
although there are valleys affording coarse, excellent grass, upon
which thousands of wild cattle subsist. Some tracts of land, I was informed,
at the southern part of the island, were low, level, and abundantly
productive of excellent herbage. Many years since, the French and Spanish
left, at different times, cattle and horses upon the isle. They have
multiplied and increased, until they now estimate the number at a hundred
thousand head that are roaming wild over the hills.
The ship being safely moored, I entreated my husband to take me on shore.
After much persuasion, he consented. A boat was lowered, in which, after
much difficulty, I was placed. This was effected by tying a rope around my
waist, and lowering me down the ship's side; then watching an opportunity
when the boat was in a right position, to "lower away." This method was of
necessity adopted, the sea being so rough, I lacked the courage to leave the
ship the usual way. When my feet were placed once more on terra firma , I
inwardly resolved never again to return on ship-board. We wandered from the
shore to the top of a small eminence, from whence, at a little distance, we
descried a shanty.
We approached, and, judging from the writing found upon the walls, it had
been the resort of sailors thrown upon that inhospitable coast. In it was a
sort of stone fire-place, on which the sailors placed some dried heather
found in the hut, which, when ignited, threw out a ruddy blaze that sent its
cheering beams directly to the heart. On our way to the hut, we noticed
several perforations in the earth. One of the sailors, desirous of
investigating the origin of these holes, thrust his hand into one of them,
but instantly withdrew it with a smothered oath, and an expression evincing
acute pain. Immediately, out rushed a penguin, displaying unmistakable
symptoms of a fight. Every hole contained a penguin, secreted there for the
purpose of incubation. The sailors, of course, exasperated that a brother
shipmate should receive such treatment as a reward for his prying curiosity,
routed the whole posse of penguins, and a regular hand-to-hand battle
ensued; for to the penguins can never be imputed one particle of cowardice,
when the call for action is the defence of her eggs or young. Victory was,
of course, conceded to the strongest party. But not always does "might make
right."
Nothing could be seen in any direction inland but barren hills; yet,
cheerless as was the prospect on shore, no entreaty, or even command, of my
husband, could induce me to return to that burning ship. Here was a sad
dilemma for my husband to be placed in. A sense of duty called him on board;
yet he could not leave me on shore all night without a protector. Finally,
at the intercession of the mate, who volunteered to take good care of the
ship, he reluctantly consented to remain with me, although he spent the
greater part of the night watching the ship.
Next morning, as we were about to repair to the boat,--for, upon reflection,
I concluded that to be the only way by which the settlement could be
reached,--a horseman appeared in the distance, riding at a furious pace
directly for us. As he approached, and reined in his jet-black steed in
front of our party, I certainly never beheld such a perfect specimen of
equestrian grace and manly beauty.
Springing from his horse, he accosted us in a language unintelligible to all
except "Old Tom," as he was designated by his shipmates. He proved to be one
of a class of men denominated guachos, who are employed in lassoing and
bringing in wild cattle. Tom soon acquainted him with every particular
concerning us; whereupon he insisted that the capitan's senora should go
with him to his ranch, about four miles distant, where every attention would
be lavished by his senora to render me comfortable until I could proceed to
the settlement. Tom interpreted the invitation, which, of course, I declined
accepting, feeling a reluctancy to go with him alone. Discovering my
hesitancy, he endeavored to remove all objections by bestowing several
flattering encomiums upon my personal appearance, which were certainly
ill-starred, and served only to increase my unwillingness to go with him
unattended. It was at length decided that the second mate should accompany
me.
Our Spanish friend laughed at the idea of my being afraid to mount his
spirited horse, and even objecting to be seated in front of him--the manner
in which they often ride with senoritas. He mounted his horse alone; while
Mr. Wood and myself walked by his side. My husband returned to the ship. We
found it very tiresome travelling over the bogs, with the wind blowing
almost a gale. After panting and puffing, and being obliged several times to
stop and recover breath, we reached the top of a little eminence; and there,
sure enough, was the veritable ranch. It looked so pleasant and home-like
about the little cottage, that in vain I endeavored to repress those
outgushings of the heart engendered by the sight of objects which recalled
vividly to mind home, and all the warm and kindly associations connected
therewith.
A lovely little Spanish woman met us at the
door, and, after exchanging a few words with her husband, she embraced me
affectionately, led me to a pleasant little room looking out upon the bay,
and placed a loaf of bread and pitcher of milk on a table by my side. She
seemed really grieved because I could not swallow one mouthful. My feelings
were fast gaining the ascendency. So much sympathy as she expressed, by her
gestures and tender offices, completely won my affections.
I had taken very little food after learning the ship was on fire, and, with
feelings all the while wrought to such a state of excitement, the revulsion
well-nigh prostrated me. In the meantime, word had reached the settlement
that there was a ship in distress outside, and a number of the most popular
men of the place had started to render any necessary assistance. Sometime
after noon, they reached the Spaniard's house, where we were, and learning
of Mr. Wood the particulars, took him into the boat, and, with the exception
of three of them, proceeded to meet the ship. It was blowing so hard, they
would be compelled to beat the ship up the bay, which would, of course,
occupy some time.
Mr. Hamlin, the physician, the surveyor-general, and the clergyman, (the
three who remained,) proposed taking the sail-boat belonging to the
Spaniard, and take me at once to the colony; and, as their ladies were
English, it would be pleasanter than to remain where I was.
Therefore, I bade adieu to my beautiful Spanish friend, and about sundown
reached the narrow entrance to the inner harbor. Two large wooden men stand
on each side of the entrance, pointing towards the town. Passing through,
you find yourself in one of the nicest, land-locked harbors in the world,
where ships of the largest tonnage can lie in safety.
The town is built at the base of the hills, which rise gradually from this
beautiful basin. How far away from the busy, bustling world seemed this
little hamlet! and how quiet and serene, I thought, must pass the lives of
those dwelling upon this remote isle! The sun was shedding his last golden
rays upon the surrounding hill-tops, before retiring to his hesperian couch.
While inanimate nature was welcoming me to this haven of rest, how
inexpressibly lonely I felt at heart, surrounded by strangers! No doubt they
would extend a friendly greeting; but, oh, how my heart yearned for the warm
welcome of some home-friend!
Mr. Hamlin took me to his house, where I was cordially received by his
amiable lady, and nothing was omitted that could in any way contribute to my
comfort, or serve to dispel those home-sick feelings which naturally
acquired the ascendency. That night, sleep was a stranger to my pillow. I
shall ever remember Mrs. Hamlin with feelings of affection. No kind mother
could have bathed my aching head more tenderly. Oh, there is a magnetic
power in kindness! Kind words are always winning, whether from friend or
stranger.
Late in the afternoon, the ship appeared at the entrance. After dropping
anchor, my husband called a survey, opened her hatches, and found her to be
so badly on fire, they decided to run her ashore, and scuttle her. He
selected a spot which happened to be opposite the little grave-yard. Slowly
and majestically was she wafted to her place of rest. Never more would she
gallantly breast old oceans's wave. With tearful eyes I watched her motions.
She had been my home so long, I loved her as such. They cut holes in her
side, and sank her in depth of water sufficient to cover the fire. For two
days she was enveloped in steam, which precluded all possibility of gaining
the deck. After the fire was extinguished, they stopped the holes, and
worked the pumps incessantly, without diminishing in the least the depth of
water in the ship. She had bilged; her beams and stancheons were burnt off;
and her lower deck had fallen in. She was condemned and sold at auction. It
was our intention to go directly home, as soon as an opportunity presented.
The isolated situation of the island prevented its being visited often,
especially by ships homeward-bound; therefore, our stay there might be
indefinitely protracted. There were about four hundred inhabitants in this
remote colony, consisting of English, Spanish, and French. The people were
under the immediate jurisdiction of a governor, who ruled with despotic
power. The governor, clergyman, doctor, governor's secretary,
surveyor-general, and lawyer, are appointed by the queen, and receive a
salary of four hundred pounds sterling per year, with the exception of the
governor, who has eight hundred. These, with their families, also Lloyd's
agent, and the merchant, constitute the gentry, as they style themselves.
The governor lives in princely style. To be seated in his reception-room,
one would imagine himself in some English palace. Everything has been
transported from England--both house and furniture. All the frame-buildings
on the island were brought either from England or the main-land. Those of
the poorer class were mere huts, constructed of peat and stone. Peat is also
used by them for fuel. Those only who receive a salary can indulge in the
luxury of a coal fire.
There is not a tree on the island, with the exception of a few apologies for
the same in the governor's garden. They, upon being transplanted into such
un-genial soil, had assumed a stinted, sickly appearance.
The governor was a stern, austere-looking personage, greatly to be feared,
and seldom loved. One little incident, that came under my own immediate
perception, I will relate. It will serve, in a measure, to illustrate his
arbitrary propensities. His household consisted of himself, wife, and two
sons. The eldest was an imbecile, and so perfectly child-like in his
disposition, that he readily won the sympathy of all the inhabitants. The
youngest was a wild, head-strong sort of a chap, about fourteen years of
age. For him they had employed a young governess, whom they brought with
them from England. This young lady they treated more like a menial than as a
companion for their children. They looked upon the young instructress as one
born to labor and endure, seemingly unconscious that there were as deep
fountains of sorrow and love in her heart as there was in those who were
fostered in wealth and luxury. One evening, there was a social gathering at
the house of Mr. W--; and, of course, Miss T--, being an accomplished and
intelligent young person, was present. Upon preparing to leave, early in the
evening, (as she was required to be in by nine o'clock,) Mr. W-- proposed to
accompany her, as her path lay near the barracks, where were always
assembled a drunken, riotous set. Next morning, he received a note from the
governor, requesting his immediate presence. Mrs. W-- felt quite alarmed at
the thought of her husband incurring the displeasure of his majesty. Upon
appearing before this august personage, he received a severe reprimand for
so far forgetting his station as a gentleman as to escort home one whom he
considered as a dependent upon his bounty, and also assured him, if he was
guilty of the like offence again, he should consider him deficient in all
that constituted a gentleman.
The governor's wife boasted of being a descendant of the "fair maid of
Perth." I have no reason to doubt the tie of consanguinity, although she
certainly had not inherited any of the personal attractions of her lovely
progenitor.
They were all very kind to us, showing every respect and attention.
Doubtless, I often shocked them with my Yankee provincialisms. Every family
of note had magnificent side-boards, stored with the choicest kinds of
liquors and cordials. It was considered a breach of etiquette to refuse to
partake of the good cheer set before you. What would our American ladies at
the present day think of having such an array set before them, when making
their accustomed calls? Yet it is universally practiced here.
To diminish our expenses, we concluded to go to housekeeping. My husband
rented the only vacant building in the place, a miserable, barn-like shanty,
for which he paid the exorbitant sum of thirty dollars per month. Thither we
moved ourselves: we had little else to move. Nearly every one contributed
some article of domestic use. Our larder was supplied with wild-fowl and
beef, also a species of fish which are taken from the numerous streams which
intersect the country. They are designated trout, but do not in appearance
or flavor resemble our own speckled trout, which by epicures are considered
such a nice treat. No kind of vegetables could be procured at any price. The
inclemency of the weather, even in summer months, precludes the growth of
the most hardy kind. Cold storms of hail and sleet are of frequent
occurrence in summer. One gentleman, by inclosing a piece of ground with a
high peat wall to shelter it from the cold winds, had managed, by dint of
great exertion, to raise a few cabbages.
Often, when seated at my window, my attention had been attracted towards a
lovely little girl, with soft dark eyes, and long auburn ringlets hanging in
rich profusion over her shoulders. She was usually accompanied by a tall,
dignified, melancholy-looking individual, who, I afterwards learned, stood
in the relation of father. His very countenance, which was seldom irradiated
by a smile, bore traces of ineffable sorrow. They would spend hours in
sailing around the bay in a fancy yacht, which he kept moored opposite our
house. Upon inquiry, I learned that for some time the gossiping and
wonder-loving portion of the community had been kept in constant agitation
regarding the mystery that surrounded Mr. Montague (for by that name was he
known) and his family. He kept himself aloof from all society; and the only
servant he kept had never been known to speak an intelligible word to any
one. She seemed devotedly attached to her master, and guarded little Myrtie
with watchful tenderness. Myrtie came to my door one day, bringing me a
basket of nice little fish, and gracefully presented them, saying that she
often amused herself by fishing. After that, she became a daily visitor.
Daily my interest in that child increased. She was wonderfully endued with
intellectual powers for one of her years. One day, she said to me, "Do you
know why I brought you those fish? and what brings me every day to see you?"
I told her I did not. Said she, "I do so love to look in your face! It makes
me feel happy. I always think of some one I loved well, and called mamma. It
seems such a long time ago,--so very long,--I sometimes think it was a
dream. But, since you came here, I can remember more. I can recollect she
looked like you; and, when you smile, you look as she used to, when she
would kiss me, and call me her little darling. Oh, I remember how I cried
when a tall, dark-looking man snatched me from my mamma's arms,--how she
looked, as she ran screaming after us!
"I never saw her again. Then old `Nurse Bell' took care of me. We sailed on
the water a long, long time before we came here." Her papa, she said, "was
very kind, and she loved him; but she could love him better, if he would
talk more about mamma." When she asked him to tell her all about her, he
would shake his head, look very gloomy, and say, "Your mamma is in heaven."
Her father was her only instructor, and she was far advanced in her studies.
He also taught her music: she played and sang sweetly. For once I felt
inclined to pardon the inquisitive; for they certainly had food for idle
speculation. Dear little Myrtie! often have I sighed when thinking of your
lonely situation, uncheered by the presence of that guardian angel of
childhood--a mother--on whom you could bestow that wealth of affection
concentrated in an almost too confiding and sensitive heart.
The winter preceding our arrival at the islands had been one of unusual
inclemency. Communication with the main-land was entirely cut off before the
winter's supply of hay and grain had been procured. In consequence, the
cattle suffered incredibly. The snow, for two months, lay upon the ground to
the depth of two feet. All the sustenance the cattle could obtain was
insufficient to keep off starvation. They were often found dead, thirty and
forty in heaps together.
When the English first established this colony, they intended to export
hides, tallow, seal-skins, and seal-oil. As yet, they have shipped no
tallow. Sealing is carried on to a considerable extent.
England's convicts, when banished to the
sunny isle of Australia, are not as deserving of the sympathy of the
philanthropist as are those old pensioners, to the number of thirty, who,
with their families, have been induced, by the promises held out to them,
and which they have found, to their sorrow, can never be fulfilled, to leave
merry England, for a home on these barren islands.
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CHAPTER V
The feathered tribes are very numerous on
these islands of Southern hemisphere. Of penguins, there are four kinds--the
king penguin, the macaroni, the jackass, and the rookery. The first of these
is much larger than a goose; the other three are smaller, differing in
appearance in several particulars. They all walk upright, with their legs
projecting from their bodies in the same direction with their tails. When
fifty or more of them are seen in file, they appear, at a distance, like a
company of soldiers. They carry their heads high, with their wings drooping
like two arms. The breast-feathers are delicately white, with a line of
black running across the crops. Seen at a distance, they have the appearance
of little men, with a white bosom, black neckerchief, and short breeches.
Their gait on land, however, is very awkward--rather more so than that of a
sailor just returned from a long voyage.
When tamed, the penguin becomes quite tractable. A lady at the isle had
domesticated and made quite a pet of a king penguin, which she, however,
proposed to relinquish for the sum of thirty dollars. She had taught him to
sit at table with her. A sip of coffee he seemed to enjoy with much gusto;
and if, perchance, she attempted to raise the cup to her lips before first
presenting his majesty with a draught, he would, quick as thought, with a
blow from one of his "hands," dash the cup to the floor. He followed her
about the house as a child follows its mother; and she assured us he was a
great deal of company for her when alone.
Another sea-fowl peculiar to the islands is the upland-goose, which is about
the size of our domestic goose. Their plumage is rich and glossy: that of
the gander is dazzlingly white. The down is equal to that of the swan. The
teal are also found here, and far surpassing in beauty those of this
country. Their bills and feet are blue; their wings of a golden green. The
ducks are similar to those found in the United States; but the manner of
going a-ducking very dissimilar,--no lying in wait half a day before getting
a good shot. You might take your gun and shoot them down, and dozens will
come to ascertain the cause of the report.
Previous to our arrival, three other vessels had put into the harbor in
distress, and had been condemned. The crews of these vessels were constantly
out gunning. I would see them often returning over the hills, laden with
those beautiful white geese, looking like so many swans. A Dutch captain,
whose vessel had been condemned, was very contentedly pursuing the "even
tenor of his way," bringing in the game, while "mine frow" was as
industriously manufacturing feather beds. Never having heard them say
anything about getting away, I presume they are yet at the old vocation.
A moral philosopher and naturalist would be highly interested in
contemplating, for days, the operations of a South Sea rookery, observing
the order and regularity with which everything is conducted. When a
sufficient number of penguins, albatross, etc., are assembled on shore, they
proceed to the execution of the grand object for which they left their
native element. First, they trace a well-defined parallelogram, of requisite
extent to accommodate the whole fraternity,--perhaps from one to four or
five acres. One side runs parallel with the water's edge, and is left open
for egress and regress. They then commence picking up the stones, and
depositing them outside the lines; thus creating quite a little wall on
three sides. Within this wall they form a pathway, several feet in width,
which would not suffer, in regard to smoothness, compared with any
fashionable promenade in our city parks. This path is for the sentinels to
patrol at night. They next lay out the whole in little squares, formed by
narrow paths which cross each other at right angles. At each intersection of
these paths, an albatross constructs her nest; while in the center of each
square is a penguin's nest.
Although the penguin and albatross profess such sincere attachment for one
another, they not only form their nests in a different manner, but the
penguin will rob her friend's nest, whenever an opportunity presents; being
ambitious, I suppose, to produce a large family. The penguin's nest is
formed by an excavation in the earth; while that of the albatross if formed
by throwing up a mound of earth, eight or ten inches high; on the summit of
which she can scrutinize the proceedings of her nearest neighbors and best
friends.
The camp of the rookery is in continual motion; penguins passing through the
different paths, on their return from aquatic excursions, eager to caress
their mates after a temporary absence; while the latter are passing out in
quest of refreshment and recreation. At the same time, the air is almost
darkened by an innumerable number of albatross hovering over the rookery,
continually lighting, and meeting their companions; while others are rising,
and shaping their course for the sea. To see these creatures of the ocean so
faithfully discharge the duties assigned them by the great Creator; to
witness their affectionate re-unions, their numerous acts of tenderness and
courtesy to each other, the reflection naturally arises, that, if there was
only as much harmony and genuine affection between wedded pairs of the human
family, the connubial state would then indeed be "all that we dream of
heaven."
We had remained at the islands about a month, when the ship Humayoon, from
Dundee, (McKenzie, master,) bound to Valparaiso, laden with coal, tar, and
liquors, put into port to procure water and beef. The captain formed an
acquaintance with my husband, and, after learning the particulars of our
situation, very kindly offered us a passage to Valparaiso; from whence we
could, in all probability, arrive home sooner than by remaining where we
were. After having procured the necessaries required, I expected the captain
would at once proceed on his voyage; but, being perfectly independent, as he
was sole owner of the fine ship and cargo, he protracted his stay at the
settlement day after day, thereby gratifying the mirth-loving portion of the
community by assembling them at different times on ship-board, to join in
the merry dance. He had on board several musical instruments, which he was
taking out to dispose of; and, being possessed of extraordinary musical
talents, the people were perfectly delighted and entranced with specimens of
his skill. He had a perfect passion for Scotch airs, which, all conceded,
never before sounded half so enlivening. But pleasures, however
transporting, unhappily cannot last. No chain, be it of gold, or pearl, or
flowers, can bind the stubborn wings of Time, and bid him loiter on his way.
On the morning of the 25th of November, he weighed anchor, and turned her
bows towards the entrance.
I cast a last, sad, lingering look at the old Nonantum, and bade adieu to
kind friends, whom, probably, I should never meet again on the journey of
life, although they would be often remembered. During my sojourn at the
islands, although I found kind friends, I passed many a gloomy hour. As the
season approached which, from time immemorial, in dear old New England, has
been observed as a day of thanksgiving and prayer,--a day, of all others,
when severed families assemble under the paternal roof, to meet once again
the loved friends of their youth, to tread again the paths hallowed by
childhood's earliest recollection,--the anniversary of such a day, while in
this remote region, crowded my memory with reminiscences of the past,
pleasurable, from the associations which they recalled, and painful, from
the position which I then occupied.
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Chapters Six
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